Planting And Maintaining An Herb/Kitchen Garden

Basic Organic Program

(Many thanks to the Dirt Doctor, Howard Garrett (www.dirtdoctor.com) for teaching me most of what I know about organic gardening. His website, especially the forums, is worth a look.)

For a kitchen garden, organic preparation and maintenance is mandatory. You're going to be eating this stuff―do you really want to pour bottle after bottle of toxic chemicals on your food? In addition, chemical fertilizers provide an "empty" type of food directly to the plants. This is like the empty calories we get from eating pure sugar. Microbes in the soil have evolved over the past 200 million years to provide full service to the plants. They decompose dead plant and animal residues to humus; combine nitrogen and carbon to prevent nutrient loss; suppress disease; produce plant growth regulators; develop soil structure, tilth, and water penetration/retention; clean up chemical residues; shift soil pH toward neutral; retrieve nutrients from distant parts of the soil; decompose thatch; and control nitrogen supply to the plants according to need.

Once established, organic gardens are easy to maintain and result in healthier plants and better tasting food. Organic soil is alive with microbes, good insects and earthworms, toxic chemical soil is dead or overloaded with pathogens and insect pests. Organic soil has a balance of major nutrients and trace minerals, toxic chemical soil is not balanced. It has little carbon and a deficiency of trace minerals. Organic soil drains well, chemical soil often doesn't. Dead, chemical-laden soil sticks to your shoes when wet. Healthy, sweet smelling, productive soil doesn't.

To begin using an organic program:

1.   Stop using all synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.

2.   Build soil health with organic products, composting and mulching.

3.   Use native and well-adapted plants.

Preparing New Beds

Scrape away existing grass and weeds, add 4-6" of compost, lava sand at 40-80 lbs., organic fertilizer at 20 lbs. (I prefer Sustane, Texas T, or Bioform Dry, one of your local nurseries should carry them, or you can get them―and all the other necessary organic supplies―at Redenta's, 2001 Skillman in Dallas. Sustane and Texas T are available at Empire Seed in Waco. All three are available at Organic Plus Nursery in Waco. Bioform Dry, lava sand, and Texas greensand are sometimes available at Lowe's stores), wheat/corn/molasses amendment at 30 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. and till to a depth of 3" into the native soil. Excavation of natural soil and additional ingredients such as concrete sand, peat moss, foreign soil and pine bark should not be used. More compost is needed for shrubs, flowers, and herbs than for groundcover. Add Texas greensand to black and white soils and high-calcium lime to acid soils. Decomposed granite and zeolite are effective for all soils.

Fertilizing

Broadcast organic fertilizer 2-3 times per year. Foliar feed all plants during the growing season, at least monthly with compost tea or Garrett Juice. Add volcanic rock such as lava sand at 40-80 lbs./1,000 sq. ft. Use dry molasses and humate the first few years. The rate can vary from 50 lbs/acre to 200 lbs/acre. Dry molasses can be used by itself as high as 10 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

Mulching

Mulch all shrubs, trees ground cover, and food crops with 2-5" of shredded native tree trimmings to protect the soil from sunlight, wind and rain, inhibit weed germination, decrease watering needs and mediate soil temperature. Native cedar is the best choice. Do not use pine bark nuggets, which is what most nurseries will try to sell you. They float away when it rains and seal the ground off from air―which is vitally important in an organic program―when dry.  

Watering

Water only as needed. The organic program reduces the frequency and volume needed. Water deeply and wait as long as possible between waterings. Add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar per gallon when watering pots. Inexpensive, easy to install microsprinkler systems are available at Lowe's and Home Depot. They will save you lots of time and effort.

Mowing

Frequency of mowing varies with grass varieties. Mulch clippings into the lawn to return nutrients and organic matter to the soil. Put occasional excess clippings in compost pile. Don't ever let clippings leave the site. Do not use line trimmers around shrubs and trees.  Buffalograss lawns need less mowing than any grass.

Pruning

Remove dead, diseased and conflicting limbs.  Do not over prune. Do not make flush cuts. Leave the branch collars intact. Do not paint cuts except on red oaks and live oaks in oak-wilt areas when spring pruning can't be avoided.  Remember that pruning cuts hurt trees. Pruning is done for your benefit, not for the benefit of the trees.

Compost Making

Compost, Nature's own living fertilizer, can be made at home or purchased ready-to-use.  Compost can be started any time of the year in sun or shade. Anything once living can go in the compost - grass clippings, tree trimmings, food scraps, bark, sawdust, rice hulls, weeds, nut hulls and animal manure. Mix the ingredients together and simply pile the material on the ground. The best mixture is 80% vegetative matter and 20% animal waste, although any mix will compost. Oxygen is a critical component.  Ingredients should be a mix of coarse and fine-textured material to promote air circulation through the pile. Turn the pile as time allows to speed up the process. Another critical component is water. A compost pile should be  roughly the moisture of a squeezed-out sponge to help the living organisms thrive and work their magic. Compost is ready to use as a soil amendment when the ingredients are no longer identifiable. The color will be dark brown, the texture soft and crumbly and it will smell like the forest floor. Rough, unfinished compost can be used as a top-dressing mulch around all plantings.

Weeding

Hand pull large weeds and work on soil health for overall control. Mulch all bare soil.

AVOID SYNTHETIC HERBICIDES, such as pre-emergents, broadleaf treatments, soil sterilants and especially the SU (sulfonylurea) herbicides such as Manage and Oust. Spray broadleaf weeds as a last resort with full strength vinegar with 2 oz. orange oil and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap or remove weeds by hand. Commercial organic products are now available.

By the way, Roundup is not acceptable in an organic program.

Controlling Insects

Aphids, spider mites, whiteflies & lacebugs: Release ladybugs and green lacewings regularly until natural populations exist. Spray Garrett Juice and/or garlic-pepper tea (recipes below). Use strong water blasts for heavy infestations.

Caterpillars and bagworms: Release trichogramma wasps. Spray Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) as a last resort.

Fire ants: Drench mounds with Garrett Juice plus orange oil, release beneficial nematodes and go totally organic. Grasshoppers: Eliminate bare soil, apply beneficial nematodes, and spray kaolin clay particle film if needed. Encourage biodiversity and feed the birds regularly.

Grubworms: Beneficial nematodes and general soil health are the primary control.

Mosquitoes: Broadcast cedar flakes and use cedar mulch. Use Bacillus thuringiensis 'Israelensis' for larvae in standing water. Spray orange oil based products or garlic-pepper tea for adult insects. Spray or apply to the skin lavender, vanilla, citronella and eucalyptus products to repel mosquito adults.

Slugs, snails, fleas, ticks, chinch bugs, roaches, crickets: Spray or dust natural diatomaceous earth products and broadcast cedar flakes and crushed red pepper. Orange oil also kills these pests. For more details on pest control, check out the Texas Bug Book.

AVOID ALL PYRETHRUM PRODUCTS, ESPECIALLY THOSE CONTAINING PIPERNYL BUTOXIDE (PBO),  PETROLEUM DISTILLATES AND OTHER CONTAMINANTS.

Controlling Diseases

Black spot, brown patch, powdery mildew and other fungal problems: Best control is prevention through soil improvement, avoidance of high-nitrogen fertilizers and proper watering. Spray Garrett Juice plus garlic and/or neem. Baking soda or potassium bicarbonate can also be added for serious problems. Treat soil with horticultural cornmeal at about 20 lbs./ 1,000 sq. ft. Organic gardens have few disease problems.

Organic Recipes

Garlic-pepper Tea Insect Repellent

In a blender with water, liquefy 2 bulbs of garlic and 2 cayenne or habanero peppers. Strain away the solids. Pour the garlic/pepper juice into a 1 gallon container. Fill the remaining volume with water to make one gallon of concentrate. Shake well before using and add 1/4 cup of the concentrate to each gallon of water in the sprayer. To make garlic tea, simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. For additional power add 1 tablespoon of seaweed and molasses to each gallon. Shake well before using and add 1/4 cup of the concentrate To each gallon of water in the sprayer. To make garlic tea, simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. For additional power add 1 tablespoon of seaweed and molasses to each gallon. Always use plastic containers with loose fitting lids for storage.

Garrett Juice (foliar spray and soil drench)

Mix the following per gallon of water: 1 cup of compost tea or liquid humate, 1 ounce liquid seaweed, 1 ounce blackstrap molasses, 1 ounce apple cider vinegar. To make a mild insect control product, add 1 oz. of citrus oil per gallon of spray. To make the fire ant killer, add 2 oz. of citrus oil per gallon. When spraying the foliage of plants, don't use over 2 oz. of citrus oil per gallon of spray. This mixture also works as a soil detox product if you are just starting your organic program.

Dirt Doctor's Potting Soil

8 parts compost, 4 parts lava sand, 2 parts decomposed granite sand, 2 parts cedar flakes, 1 part zeolite, 1 part horticultural cornmeal, 1 part dry molasses, 1 part Texas Greensand. 

Compost Tea

Compost tea is an effective foliar spray because of many mineral nutrients and naturally occurring microorganisms. Fill any container half full of compost and finish filling with water. Let the mix sit a few days and then dilute and spray on the foliage of any and all plants. How to dilute the dark compost tea before using depends on the compost used. A rule of thumb is to dilute the leachate down to one part compost liquid to 4 to 10 parts water. The ready-to-use spray should look like iced tea. Be sure to strain the solids out with old pantyhose, cheesecloth or floating row cover material. Full strength tea makes an excellent fire ant mound drench when mixed with 2 oz. molasses and 2 oz. orange oil per gallon. Add vinegar, molasses and seaweed to compost tea to make Garrett  Juice.

Herb & Plant Information

Aloe Vera. Tender perennial. Full sun. Height: up to 35 inches. Spread: 24 inches. Transplants. Best planted in a pot on the porch.

Basil. Annual. Full sun or morning sun with afternoon shade. Plant seed or transplants (easiest and fastest) in spring after the last frost. Height: 2 to 3 feet. Spread: 18 inches. Spacing: 12 to 18 inches. Attracts lots of bees, which are beneficial insects. It is also one of the most attractive herbs. There are several different varieties, and I've never found one that didn't grow well here. Plant several different kinds for variety. Very susceptible to frost, so cut it all down before the first freeze, run the leaves through a food processor, fill ice cube trays half way with the chopped basil, then fill the rest with olive oil. One the basil "cubes" are solid, take them out of the trays, put them in a plastic bag, then use them all winter. It also dries well, but you get better flavor from freezing.

Blackberries. Perennial. Full sun. Height: 3 to 5 feet. Spread: more than you want if you don't keep them cut back. An aggressive, spreading plant. Spacing: 24 to 36 inches apart. Two year old canes bloom and produce fruit. Prune out the old canes after harvesting because they will never produce again. Do not prune during the winter because the buds are formed in September. The "Brazos" variety seems to do well here.

Chamomile. Usually considered an annual, but can perennialize. Full sun to dappled shade. Plant from seed in late winter or use transplants in the early spring. If it gets too cold, it will freeze. Height: 18 inches. Spread: 36 inches. Spacing: 12 inches. Delicate fern-like foliage and small white daisy-like flowers. Easy to grow. The fresh or dried flowers can be used for teas. Attractive plant.

Chives. Hardy perennial. Full sun to part shade. Plant transplants in the spring. Height: 12 to 18 inches. Spread: 6 to 12 inches. Spacing: 6 to 12 inches. Plant both onion chives and garlic chives if you can find them. Grow well in pots. Easy to grow.

Coriander/Cilantro. Annual. Full sun or morning sun with afternoon shade. Sow seeds in the fall or transplant in the spring. Height: 18 to 24 inches. Spread: 18 to 24 inches. Spacing: 12 to 15 inches. Attracts beneficial insects and deters harmful ones. Can be difficult to transplant. Foliage is great in salsas and pico de gallo. Seeds are good in meat dishes. Is attractive at first, but gets somewhat ugly with age. Who cares? It tastes great.

Dill. Annual. Full sun, protected from strong winds. Sow seeds in the fall or transplant in the spring. Height: 24 to 36 inches. Spread: 12 to 24 inches. Spacing: 12 inches. Use both the foliage and dried seeds for cooking.

Echinacea (Purple coneflower). Perennial. Sun to part shade. Sow seeds in the fall or transplant all year. Height: 2 to 3 feet. Spread 2 to 4 feet. Spacing: 1 to 2 feet. An attractive addition to the herb garden. All parts of the plant are medicinal.

Fennel. Annual or very tender perennial. Full sun to part shade. Transplants or seed in the spring or fall. Height: 3 to 6 feet. Spread: 24 inches. Spacing: 18 to 24 inches. The dried seeds have a licorice flavor, and are excellent in certain Italian dishes. The foliage is great in salads―a nice change from plain ol' iceberg lettuce.

Garlic. Perennial Bulb. Sun or dappled shade. Cloves or transplants can be set out in the fall or spring. Height: up to 4 feet. Spread: 6 inches. Spacing: 4 to 6 inches. For larger bulbs, cut off the flowering stems as they emerge. When the tips of the leaves first start to turn yellow, the bulbs are ready to be harvested.

Lavendar. Evergreen perennial. Full sun to partial shade. Transplant year round. Height: 24 to 36 inches. Spread: 36 to 48 inches. Spacing: 18 to 24 inches. Attractive herb. Use leaves as you would rosemary. The lavender-blue flowers in the summer smell wonderful. Be careful not to overwater. Can be finicky and difficult, but is a wonderful plant when it works.

Marjoram. Perennial. Full sun. Sow seeds in the fall or transplant in the spring. Height: 10 to 15 inches. Spread: 18 to 24 inches. Spacing: 18 to 24 inches. Use just like oregano. Makes a great border plant or groundcover. The flowers attract butterflies and bees.

Mexican Oregano. Full sun to partial shade. Plant from spring to fall. Height: 2 to 4 feet. Spread: 18 to 36 inches. Spacing: 12 to 18 inches. Use just like oregano. Hummingbirds love the white to lavender-pink flowers.

Mint. Perennial. Full sun to afternoon shade. Plant year round from transplants. It is best to plant mint in pots, as it is a very aggressive plant. Height: 1 to 3 feet. Spread: any soil it can get to. Spacing: 12 to 24 inches. Keep moist. Many different kinds are available. I like chocolate mint's foliage the best.

Onion. Perennial bulbs. Sun or dappled shade. Set out in late winter. Height: 8 to 30 inches. Spread: 8 to 12 inches. Spacing: 4 to 8 inches. Harvest bulbs after tops have turned brown. Texas 1015 is a mild, sweet onion.

Oregano. Perennial. Full sun to partial shade. Transplant in early spring. Height: 8 to 30 inches. Spread: 15 to 30 inches. Spacing: 18 inches. Great in Greek and Italian food. Sprawling, low-growing plant. Dries well. Plant several different kinds for variety.

Parsley. Biennial. Full morning sun with afternoon shade is best. Plant seeds or transplants in early spring or late summer. Height: 12 inches. Spread: 8 to 12 inches. Spacing: 12 inches. Plant both flat-leaf Italian parsley (which tastes better) and curly parsley for garnishing.

Peppers. Tender perennials. Full sun to moderate shade. Set out transplants in spring. Height: 12 inches to 5 feet. Spread: 18 inches to 6 feet. Spacing: 12 to 18 inches. Easy to grow, and many varieties produce lots of peppers. Cut the peppers from the plants―breaking them off damages the plants. Plant several different varieties. Even if you can't eat or pickle them all, the ripe peppers add color and variety to the garden. Will grow well in pots, but do better in the ground.

Rosemary. Evergreen. Partial shade to full sun. Stem cuttings or transplants. Height: 1 to 5 feet. Spread: 4 feet. Spacing: 12 to 18 inches. Works well in pots. Excellent when used in marinades. Attractive foliage and flowers. Once your plants get big, cut several springs, throw them into your barbecue fire, close the lid and smoke your meat for a few minutes.

Sage. Hardy perennial. Sun to partial shade. Transplant from spring to fall. Height: 24 inches. Spread: 18 inches. Spacing: 18 to 24 inches. Avoid overwatering.

St. John's Wort (Hypericum). Perennial. Full sun to partial shade. Transplant year round. Height: 2 to 3 feet. Spread: 2 to 4 feet. Spacing: 18 to 24 inches. Attractive, 2 to 3 inch yellow flowers from late spring through summer. Attractive foliage, can turn quite red under the right conditions. Trouble free, beautiful addition to the herb garden.

Tomato. Tender perennial, grown as an annual here. Full sun. Transplant after last chance of frost, then again in late summer for a fall crop. Make sure soil has lots of compost, lava sand, and soft rock phosphate. Adding cornmeal to the soil―regular grocery store cornmeal works great―helps control fungal problems. Height: 3 to 15 feet. Spread: 3 to 15 feet. Spacing: 36 to 48 inches (although I plant mine about 24 inches apart because of limited space). Plant in large, sturdy tomato cages. Mulch surrounding area very well. Pick when fully ripe for best flavor. When fruit first sets, add a handful of organic fertilizer per plant. Plants will start to look awful, then die in the heat of summer, and the fall crop will eventually freeze. Celebrity, Carnival, Better Boy, Porter, Jackpot, and Roma are the best varieties. Sweet 100, a cherry tomato, can be difficult at times, but tastes great. If you have too many tomatoes, slice them thinly, place them on a plate, add salt, freshly ground black pepper, and thinly sliced basil and/or oregano leaves, then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Small chunks of fresh mozzarella or feta cheese can be added for variety. Grab a fork, and the excess tomato problem will be quickly solved.  

Thyme. Perennial. Full sun. Transplants can be set out any time during the growing season, but spring is best. Height: 3 to 12 inches (creeping thyme), 15 to 18 inches (common thyme). Spread: 18 to 36 inches (creeping thyme), 15 to 18 inches (common thyme). Spacing: 12 to 24 inches. Tiny flowers throughout the spring and summer.

Yarrow. Perennial. Sun or partial shade. Transplant anytime. Height: 24 to 36 inches. Spread: 1 to 2 feet. Spacing: 1 to 2 feet. Tough―even my mother had trouble killing it. Flowers can be either white, rose, pink, yellow, or red. The flowers are edible, but the leaves are toxic (although they can be crushed and applied to a cut to stop bleeding and help prevent infection). Foliage is lacy and attractive all year round.   

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